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#27 | L'AMANT (SS18)

To Helena de Matos, who introduced me to Marguerite Duras and its colors… The main idea of this collection is the fragmented memory. Fragments that reflect the mismatch between a certain event and the moment we remember it, the moment we share it or even the moment we write it, as in the book of Marguerite Duras, “L’Amant”. Pieces of time where reality coexists with imprecise, fanciful and free details.” – Nuno Baltazar

The 27th collection was designed in a very personal way by Nuno Baltazar, marked by his own fragments, the memory that 20 years ago he discovered the work of Marguerite Duras at the same time he started his professional journey. A path of multiple stories that have been the subject of his own personal and creative universe.

The characters that inhabit the Baltazar’s collections are not linear and in this collection are all one.

The silhouette results of the overlayering of volumes and incoherent garments, that are the example of untraditional coordinations. Floating between dense and liquid structures, opaque and transparent, feminine and masculine…

Elements of the masculine wardrobe are the basis of the oversized volume developments that enhance colour blocks and texture contrasts.

The feminine and masculine looks invite the clients of the brand to explore garments in unexpected ways, in which items that were designed for men can be used by women and the other way around.

Terracota, néon, cobalt and different tones of green and pink are the lead colours of this collection but ivory-white, black, nude and navy blue are also part of the palette. Plan easy-wear canvas, viscose, cupro, cotton, linen and polyester coexist with sophisticated jacquards, crêpe and silk dupions. Pleated finishings, sport tapes and manual embroideries are also present.

In the accessories we highlight two collaborations: with Perlato for the women shoes and LE.MO.KE for the men’s footwear. Also in the accessories we feel the dynamic of the inspiration with special and sophisticated details that complement the looks of the collection.

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"Para a Helena de Matos, que me mostrou a Marguerite Duras e as suas cores…
A ideia central desta colecção é a memória fragmentada. Fragmentos que refletem o desencontro temporal entre um determinado acontecimento e o momento em que o recordamos, em que o partilhamos ou até mesmo o escrevemos, como no "L'AMANT" de Marguerite Duras. Fragmentos onde a realidade coexiste com detalhes imprecisos, fantasiosos e livres." - Nuno Baltazar

A colecção #27 é trabalhada de uma forma muito pessoal por nuno baltazar, marcada pelos seus próprios fragmentos, a memória de há 20 anos quando conheceu a obra de marguerite duras ao mesmo tempo que começou o seu percurso profissional. Uma viagem pelas múltiplas histórias que têm povoado o seu universo criativo e pessoal.

Os personagens que habitam as colecções Baltazar não são lineares e nesta estação são todos um só.

A silhueta resulta da sobreposição de volumes e peças incoerentes, que são protagonistas de coordenações pouco tradicionais. Oscilam entre estruturas densas e liquidas, opacas e translúcidas, femininas e masculinas.

Elementos do vestuário masculino em linhas V servem de base para desenvolvimentos volumétricos over-sized que reforçam blocos de cor e contraste de texturas. Têm particular destaque na tridimensionalidade das mangas e peças over-sized. As propostas femininas e masculinas coabitam numa bisexualidade deixada à exploração dos clientes da marca em que peças pensadas para homem podem ser usadas em mulheres e o contrário.

Sanguínea, terracota, néon, diferentes tonalidades de verde e rosa e cobaltos são as cores protagonistas desta estação onde marcam ainda presença marfim, preto, branco, nude e marinho. Telas lisas easy wear, viscose, cupro, algodão, linho ou poliester coordenam-se com jacquards sofisticados, crepe e dupion de seda natural. Acabamentos plissados, fitas sporty e bordados manuais.

Nos acessórios especial destaque para duas colaborações com a PERLATO, calçado de senhora, e a LE.MO.KE para as propostas masculinas. Também aqui se sente a dinâmica da inspiração da colecção entre oscilações de diferentes alturas de salto ou em detalhes sofisticados que completam as imagens desta colecção.

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